When to visit Sevilla (and when not to)

Weather, festivals and prices change the trip completely. This is what I'd tell a friend before they book a flight.

The question isn’t “when is Sevilla beautiful?”. It’s “what kind of trip do you want?”. The city in August, at Easter and on a Tuesday in November are three different places.

The short version

Best balance: mid-October to early December, and March (outside Holy Week).
For Sevilla at full volume: Semana Santa (Holy Week) or the April Fair. Book months ahead and expect high prices.
Avoid if you can choose: July and August.

Spring (March to May)

This is postcard Sevilla: good temperatures, orange blossom everywhere, terraces packed. It’s also peak season, so expect the most visitors and the highest accommodation prices.

The two big festivals fall in spring:

Semana Santa. The dates change every year. The centre fills with processions and getting around is genuinely hard, with closed streets and huge crowds. Come to see it, not to do regular sightseeing those days.
The April Fair (Feria de Abril). It’s usually a couple of weeks after Easter. Know this: most casetas (the tents) are private. If you don’t know anyone, you’ll be in the public ones, which is a different experience from the one on Instagram.

Summer (June to September)

July and August are seriously hard. Afternoons regularly go above 40 °C. Between 2 pm and 7 pm the city empties. That’s not laziness, it’s survival.

If you come in summer:

Do your sightseeing early in the morning.
Rest in the middle of the day.
Go out from 9 pm, when the city comes back to life.
In August, many neighbourhood bars and restaurants close for holidays.

September can still be very hot, especially in the first half.

Autumn (October and November)

My favourite time. Good walking weather, the city back to its normal rhythm, and the cultural season starting up: concerts, exhibitions, theatre. It may rain some days, but not much.

Winter (December to February)

Sunny days are pleasant, but nights are cold. Older houses and many older hotels aren’t built for cold: it can be colder inside than outside. Ask whether your place has proper heating.

Christmas brings lights, nativity scenes and a lively atmosphere in the centre.

Honest tip: if your trip overlaps with a Spanish bank holiday or long weekend, expect more people and higher prices, especially at places like the Alcázar. Buy tickets in advance.